Journey to a pair of pants… S9114

AT the beginning of this year [2020] I made a vision board with a few of the things I wanted to achieve over the next 12 months… one of those goals was to make a wearable pair of pants. 

Pattern EnvelopePattern Envelope

Pattern Envelope

I cannot, and SHALL NOT lie… pants have been my nemesis! I made a few unsuccessful attempts in the past and have tried a combination of every pant adjustment under the sun, at one point or another. Each time, I abandoned the project… but never the learnings. Whilst on COVID lock down I had a couple extra hours in my day to sew, and I used that time to watch a Bluprint class on pant drafting. I then embarked on drafting my first pair of trousers based on my body block – and the result, though not perfect, wasn’t half bad. Drafting that block allowed me to better understand the bottom-half of my body. I know I have a lot more to learn but so far it seems as if I have a short torso, knocked-knees, a full front thigh and a low but full bum, plus the angle at which my legs exit my pelvis… well let’s just say they do their own thing! 


Toile of S9114 - view CToile of S9114 - view C

Toile of S9114 – view C

I used this ‘new knowledge’ to make some fitting adjustments to View C of @mimig’s #s9114 pattern. The pattern has 3 very different views: the first view is a button-down dress, the second – a cami, and the third a pair of trousers. On a side note, I love patterns like these – all the options make me feel like I’m getting real bang for my buck, ya know? Anywhooooo, the trousers: they are high waisted with darts in the back and pleats in the front. They also have a fly front and are ankle length. 

Initially, I traced a straight size 16 in the pattern but adjusted the angle at which the legs exit the crotch by 1.5”. I scooped and lowered the back crotch by ¾” and then sewed up a toile of the pattern and was pleasantly surprised at the result… according to my toile however, I need more room for my mommy tummy, so I adjusted my pattern by sizing up to an 18 at the waist blending to a 16 at the hips.

Wearable muslin 1Wearable muslin 1

Wearable muslin 1

I then made my wearable muslin in a plaid fabric I’ve had in my stash from my early days (which TBH hasn’t been that long). Using plaid meant I had to take a little extra time with the cutting and sewing of the pattern to at least attempt a pattern match – but I figured the plaid would help me further identify any fitting issues because of the lines.  For reference, I’m 5ft 8.5” and carry a lot of my height in my legs, but I did not adjust the paper pattern and I didn’t quite like where the pant would sit once hemmed, so I made a deeper hem than what the pattern contemplates. I figured the next time around, I’d either lengthen the pattern or shorten it, depending on where I want the hem to lie.  The pattern does come with pockets, and I’m definitely a pocket-loving girl…. but I opted not to include them because I wanted to be able to assess the fit of the pant and I didn’t want the pocket to throw off my ability to do so accurately. 


Having made the wearable muslin, I was fairly happy with the result. However, I identified that I needed to lower the rise of the pattern just a tad so it would hit squarely at my natural waist. I also needed to raise the back crotch just a little and to do a further ½” knocked knee adjustment. Having made those adjustments, I embarked on a second wearable muslin, again without pockets so as not to interfere with the line of the pant.  

Wearable muslin 2Wearable muslin 2

Wearable muslin 2

For a long while, I had a vision of a hot pink trouser… why? I have no idea, but I wanted to bring that vision to life. Sooooo, I used a piece of pink fabric I had in my stash – I think it’s called textrex or something so. IMO, the fabric is nothing fancy, but I figured it would be good enough to do what I needed. Off I went cutting and sewing up my second wearable muslin and I’m inching closer and closer to achieving a bang on fit.


The crease line in my second pair, definitely runs straighter down the leg, than in the first pair, so I’m definitely happy about that. I do think that for my third pair (and yes there will be a third pair), I can lower the rise just a little bit more, probably about a ½”, for maximum comfort. I’ve also identified one other issue, which I’m sure is only noticeable to my pedantic self, but I haven’t yet figured out how to go about addressing the same. I’m hoping to figure it out soon – third time’s a charm… right?

P.S this top is the ‘Begonia’ top by Schultz ApparelP.S this top is the ‘Begonia’ top by Schultz Apparel

P.S this top is the ‘Begonia’ top by Schultz Apparel

Gotta luv ya and leave ya…Until next time,



One thought on “Journey to a pair of pants… S9114

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  1. You have made fabulous progress! I worked thru my pants fitting issues by watching Peggy Sagers of Silhouette Patterns YouTube videos… and a fair few Muslims. Love the bright pink- why not?!? Best wishes on the next pair


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